"Rush right out and buy a few bottles of this wonderfully appealing yet suitably serious example of Rioja, from Spain’s most renowned wine region. Burgo Viejo Reserva 2006, Rioja, was produced by a cooperative established by six families in 1987, since grown to 16 families. Altogether, they draw on 494 acres of vineyards, the majority by far devoted to red grapes. While the average age of the vines is 30 years, some of the garnacha (grenache) goes back 90 years. Oak is 90 percent American, 10 percent French. Winemaker, since 2003, is Gorka Etxebarria. Burgo Viejo Reserva 2006, Rioja, is a blend of 85 percent tempranillo grapes, 10 percent garnacha and 5 percent carignan. The color is an entrancing deep ruby with a dark violet rim and a purple center that almost pulses with intensity. Scents of tobacco leaf, sandalwood, bacon fat and tar are woven with vivid notes of black and red currants and cherries and undertones of rose petal and fruitcake; give the wine a few moments in the glass and it accumulates hints of leather, cloves, sandalwood and green peppercorns. As if that panoply of delights were not enough to entice you, in the mouth, the wine is beautifully balanced and integrated, though dense, slightly grainy tannins and a subtle and supple oak influence lend a firm foundation and framework, abetted by a burgeoning element of graphite-like minerality. All of these qualities, including spiced and macerated black and blue fruit flavors, are bound by vibrant acidity that arrows straight to a sleek, spice-laden finish concluding with a final fillip of lavender and licorice. Alcohol content is a very comfortable 13.5 percent. Drink now through 2015 or ’16 with roasted chicken, game birds or hearty stews. Excellent. About $19 or $20, representing Great Value. Restaurants take note: how often can you get a mature wine from 2006 on your wine lists at a price diners will appreciate?"
Bigger Than Your Head Wine blog (February 23rd 2012)
"Grown at a 500-acre vineyard in Alta Baja, the warmth of the district shows in the rich juiciness and sleek texture of this Reserva, a gentle Rioja with floral scents of orange blossom and violets over graphite-like tannins. It's balanced and refined, a wine to pour with thick-cut lamb chops."
"Bright ruby. Cherry-vanilla and cassis on the nose, with oak spice and anise notes adding complexity. Juicy, broad and supple, with very good depth to its cherry compote and dark berry flavors. The vanilla note returns on the finish, which is sweet, smooth and long. This is delicious and fully mature."
